One of the disappointing results of COVID this past year and a half was our inability to visit the CODECH cooperative and Viviano Ramirez Mendoza, whose coffee we have been purchasing for five years running.
Don Viviano–as he is called in the community, out of respect for his senior standing and skill as a farmer–grows coffee in one of the highest areas in Conception Huista, and his varietal composition, aside from bourbons, includes red and green pache–a dwarf Typica mutation that can produce interesting nuance in flavor. This year’s harvest is comparable to last, and seems more Typica-like than previous crops. While the coffee in some ways embodies what we like to think of as a quality, high grown, archetypal Huehuetenango, this year’s harvest seems to have a little more acidity and top end than usual: there is the expected mild red fruit, light chocolate and cinnamon, but the green and yellow top notes that speak to florality and tropicals are more abundant. It’s a crisp and bright, but still balanced, coffee. Certified organic.
Location: Concepcion Huista, Huehuetenango
Elevation: 1800 MASL
Varietal: red and green pache, caturra, bourbon
Process: washed and patio dried